Friday, January 15, 2016

Two Hands: Ares

Shiraz Worthy of Your Glass


2006 Ares Takes a Breather Before we are Even Seated

2006 Two Hands, Ares
McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley
WS: 96 points

Enjoyed at: 
Lonesome Dove

2406 N. Main Street

Fort Worth, Texas  76164

(817) 740-8810


On a little side trip to Dallas for a friend's 40th birthday, I found myself in the safe arms of a Kindly Southern Gentleman Friend from Vermont who summarily announced that we (Mr. Frank came too) would be headed off to Tim Love’s Lonesome Dove restaurant in Ft. Worth.

The magic of downtown Ft. Worth over by the stockyards is the music scene and street scene that revolves around terrifically oddball buskers and other assorted folks in Wrangler jeans and very up-to-date cowboy boots. Perhaps the most memorable site was of an elderly couple on oxygen tanks singing vintage country songs from the Patsy Cline/Hank Williams periods.


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I was at a winery in Temecula, California, at Christmas time with my big sister, and a couple who had joined us on the horseback ride through the vineyards had video of these buskers. So they are very special souls indeed! What a hoot to run into wine folks with similar experiences. More and more I get the impression that people who are into wine really like to sit back, watch, and soak up the sensations when they travel. I may just be flattering myself, but when I travel, I do notice how important the little things that make a place special are.

For example, in Paris, it’s not the Eiffel Tower that excites me, it’s the journey to get to the Tower. It’s the crazy efforts that tourists go to to cut in line. It’s the feel of the fresh air that you enjoy in line, but then as you ascend, how damnably cold it gets and makes the experience one you want to end faster than you had intended. And how impressive the structure is when you are on the ground, having a picnic at the foot of the Tower in the parkland below. That's what drinking the 2006 Ares Shiraz is like...it's less the wine—although that is exceptional—it's the journey from the cellar and into the bottle that sticks.


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At any rate, back to Ft. Worth…my Kindly Southern Gentleman Friend from Vermont was particularly excited about bringing Frankie and me to Lonesome Dove. We were thrilled because he’d been threatening to purchase a particularly expensive bottle of Aussie Shiraz to treat us for coming to visit him in Dallas.  I mean, sheeeeesh!, we’d been to South Africa and Argentina together, but we’d never come travel together on his home turf in Dallas!? The time had come. And so out came the 2006 Two Hands Ares.

It’s a graphite and cherry Syrah grape bomb whose silky mouth-feel remains memorable and exciting even as I blog this. Wine Spectator says, “Polished and generous. A plush mouthful of cherry, blackberry and creamy spice flavors that linger effortlessly on the long, open-textured finish. There’s power in this wine, but it lurks below the glassy, seamless surface, ready to grow and get more complex with aging.”

What I enjoyed was the "seamless surface" ready to drink after an hour of decanting. I couldn’t believe how privileged I was to have our Dallas host willing to splurge with such a bottle.

Thank you so much, again, Kindly Southern Gentleman Friend from Vermont, for a palette-pleaser of this magnitude! Can’t wait to dive into the next fine wine with you guys…I believe I owe you a Melville Pinot Noir sometime very soon before you head off back to Mozambique.



Let 'er Breathe

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Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Yotam's Sweet Potato Cakes

Just about any recipe with the word “pancakes” in the title "grabs" my attention.  I remember graduating from high school and my friend Katriona bought me a book that was about 50 pages long with various pancake recipes. I recall salivating through the entire book.

This weekend with @makesascene and @ELB29, we scarfed down "johnnycakes" which will be provided to you in a future blog post. I was sitting there watching all the other tables getting their dishes while we waited and waited, and I realized how the very notion of pancakes makes me impatient. I'm Pavlov's dog when it comes to these quick fried devils.

Plenty Cookbook Cover
So it should come as little surprise when @ELB29 told me that she had made a dinner for her mom, dad, and a very picky brother out of one giant jewel sweet potato, some green onions, and a side salad.

It sounded far-fetched, but the pictures from YOTAM OTTOLENGHI’S PLENTY were compelling. I had to give it a go. While it's delicious as a dish, I have to say I think most guests would find this to not be a dinner. For me, as a former vegan, this is very much a dinner. The sum total is quite heavy.

Thinking aloud, I do not see why you couldn't make these into tiny fingerfood bites and serve as an appetizer. So go on, show Yotam what you can do to adapt his recipes...

Sweet Potato Fritters

Ingredients

For the Potato Cakes
2 lb sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
2 t soy sauce
3/4 c flour
1 t salt
½ t sugar
3 T spring onion, chopped
½ t fresh chilli, finely chopped (or more, to taste)

olive oil, for frying

For the sauce
6 T Greek yogurt
2 t olive oil
1 T lemon juice
1 T fresh coriander, chopped
Freshly ground salt and pepper


Frying in the Pan, Awaiting the Plate












Instructions
Bake the sweet potato at 350 degrees in about 1/2″ of water in a non-stick flat pan until soft for about two hours or until soft. Meanwhile, whisk the sauce ingredients until smooth and set aside.

In a mixing bowl, work all the fritter ingredients by hand–it should be sticky, so if it’s a little runny, add flour as needed. I found you need all 3/4 of a cup. Do not over-mix.

Using a tablespoon, form a rounded bit of batter and drop into some hot oil that only lightly coats the bottom of the pan. Flatten with the top of a spatula after you flip. Brown both sides. Make them about 1/4″ thick. Six minutes per side is ideal. Place between plenty of papertowel to soak up the excess oil.
Serve hot or warm, with the sauce on the side, and a crisp green salad.

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Friday, January 8, 2016

Bobby Flay’s Pork Shoulder Tacos

New Years at my family’s home is about celebrating my mother, my sister Tamara’s, and now my nephew Coen Matteo's birthdays.

A couple of years ago, my sister Nicole and I decided to adapt Bobby Flay’s pork shoulder tacos for the occassion. We cut out a lot of the extraneous sugars and such because the chiles and the side dishes are what make the experience worthwhile and eminently reheatable days later, anyway.

Why should you take advice from a Bobby and a couple of Italian Americans? Because there is a flavor in this recipe that cannot be beat, and the results make for amazing leftovers that we have been able to capture in the recipe and work below.

I love the simplicity of this recipe and think you will too.

The back story to this family cooking fest begins with Coen's older brother, my nephew Nolan Michael. Nolan came to the Christmas holidays (again this was a couple of years ago) fresh from a killer cold that my sister graciously bestowed upon me, so I had the pleasure of directing the production of this year’s birthday festivities without having to get my hands in the mix.

What great sisters I have! HarHarHarHar.
At any rate, Nicole did a bang up job preparing this fairly simple recipe. First she got down to her local Mexican butcher shop in Southern California. The pork is like half the price of supermarket pork and my mom’s neighborhood has such excellent Mexican-owned butchers, that there is little of the old first-world/third-world culture clash that used to come from those more aromatic shopping adventures of yore.

We go to LA REINA MARKET (which I will do a photo spread of next time I’m there, promise!) and get ourselves six pounds of pork shoulder, grab a few bags of the chiles required to make this dish and head back home with a few of their homemade salsas. (By the by, La Reina’s avocado salsa is a strange, otherworldly hot mélange of fresh avocado and invisible salsa elements, and it is simply superb, unique, and a blessing all in one).

La Reina Market
909 N. Tustin Street
Orange, Calif. 92867
(714) 997-9525

Bobby Flay's Pork Tacos, adapted

Serves at least 8, maybe more, depending on people’s appetites

Ingredients
large dried ancho chiles (about 3/4 ounce), stemmed, seeded
2 large dried pasilla chiles, stemmed, seeded
1 T fresh lime juice
6 lb. bone-in pork shoulder (Boston butt)
2 T vegetable oil
large yellow onion, chopped (about 2 cups)
large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 bay leaves
cinnamon stick
Kosher salt

To set the taco table, you’ll also need the following:

6″ corn tortillas or 10″ flour tortillas
4 radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced or shredded

Finely chopped red onions
Chopped fresh cilantro
Cotija cheese
yellow and white Cheddar cheeses for the gringos
Homemade Guacamole
Homemade Salsas

Preheat oven to 350°F and cook completely covered for about 3 to 4 hours. Or if you have a large Le Creuset Dutch Oven, slow-cook on the stove on low for about five hours.

First get some super hot water (or just boil some water) coming out of your tap and soak the peppers. Let ‘em get really soft. This is easier to do with a little extra time, so if you can, do this the night before. About 30 minutes is all that’s needed if you use the boiling water. Drain chiles, de-stem and de-seed. After you strip them, reserving 1 cup soaking liquid, place chile skins in the Cuisinart. Be very careful, the heat from these can tax the eyes and skin. Nicole was bright red in the face during this portion of our little family cooking fest.

Make the spice paste in a Cuisinart: We used mom’s blender, and it was more challenging. But it can be done, you may have to do this in batches. Purée chiles with the chopped yellow onion, garlic, adding more soaking liquid as needed to form a smooth paste.After trimming off about a half pound of the shoulder’s fat (in the final product, all that fat really is not necessary to ensure a flavorful taco), Nicole rubbed ‘er down with rock salt and cracked black pepper. Letting the beast rest in a roasting pan (although were I at home and not slave to my mother’s lousy Revere-ware, I’d have slapped that puppy in my enormous Le Creuset roaster), we set about making the spice paste.The shoulder can be rubbed 1–2 days ahead. Cover and chill. Let come to room temperature before continuing.

Fry up the spice paste: heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Toss in two bay leaves and a cinnamon stick. Once fragrant, add in the chile purée. Add pork to pot, cover with the mixture, and transfer to oven. If you are cooking stove-top, just bring up to a boil, and then lower to lowest setting. Leave for about four to five hours, stirring occasionally to make sure parts are not burning onto the bottom of the pot.

This dish can be made as much as two days ahead, letting it cool overnight sitting on the stove or in the oven covered or you can chill in the ‘fridge. The next morning, you can skim off the fat, if you like your pork tacos to be a little leaner.

Rewarm before continuing.

At this point, you can easily shred the shoulder with a fork. Meanwhile, working in batches, cook tortillas in a large heavy skillet over low heat until toasted or in cooking oil to shape them into the tacos you may be familiar with at Taco Bell. About 1 minute per side, and they’ll be done. Transfer to a large sheet of foil; wrap to keep warm.

Serve pork with tortillas, radishes soaked in a little white vinegar and salt, salsa and guacamole, chopped red onions, sliced limes for squeezing over the final taco, and chopped cilantro—encourage kids to get in on the process. My nephew loved doing the puréeing with the blender and he’s only three. But the experience of filling your own taco with whatever there is on the table makes everyone feel like it’s a special meal.

Salt and Bearss Limes--('Bare-ass Limes" as my Dad used to say!)
Purchasing dinner at La Reina, the whole birthday extravaganza came to about $40 for 8-10 people excluding the terrific Melville Pinot Noir from Verna’s Vineyard, from Northern Santa Barbara county. The 2013 vintage will be the last wine from this Vineyard, so get yourself to the stores and get your mitts on the last of this fine, earthy, mushroom/barnyard Pinot.

Nice price, when you consider how Old World it tastes.



Bringing this to work the next day is a cinch, all you need is a set of small plastic containers to carry the accompaniments separately. Then you can assemble after you reheat the meat and the tortillas in the micro.

Read more including Bobby’s slightly different take on how to make it at EPICURIOUS.COMI’ll post our family guac and salsa recipes soon. Keep an eye out for them!



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