Sunday, February 14, 2016

Acqua al Due—A Valentine’s Day Dinner, Revisited

Acqua al Due—A Valentine’s Day Dinner revisited

Acqua al Due

212 7th Street, SE

Washington, DC 20003-4311
(202) 525-4375


It’s perhaps no surprise that since this is Washington, D.C., and I’ve lived here for like forever, that I just couldn’t leave the house until the NEWSHOUR report on the mid-primary caucuses had conclude.(yes, this blogpost is from 2012!) 

Jeez, I’m no more impacted by the results than anyone else, but I’m assuming most folks would just leave and wait to read it on their smart phones or for the 11 o’clock news or something. Yet simultaneously, I’m all concerned about being late for the 7:30 p.m. reservation not only because I want my 100 points on Open Table, but also because the three folks joining me had offered to be critics with me as we evaluated Acqua al 2, the American transplant from Florence, Italy. So I grab my keys and drive from downtown to Capitol Hill in 15 minutes flat. Which given the vagueries of the L’Enfant-designed city in which I live is quite an achievement.
“Oh the drama has already begun! You’re late, you know that, right?” Lady O said, as a young girl approached the stand next to the really quaint little bar front of the store. “So you missed it, but wait, wait, I’ll tell you in a minute when she leaves again. Ssssssh! The maitre d’ is coming back. Ssssssh!”
A bit flummoxed, I turned to the right and saw Kimmie with her new man, Timmie, a former bartender now turned Legal Man. Lady O had warned me that Kimmie had a Timmie in her life now, and that I’d be pleasantly surprised in part because he had been a former restaurant and bar man. So he could give us some solid insight into how Acqua al 2 performed.
Assaggio d'Insalate


Wow, well, after yesterday’s review from Firenze, it’s a bit of fun to find three friends who were willing to make the comparison. Timmie introduced himself and informed me that first impressions were not good, “You aren’t going to believe this, but I said to the bartender, two glasses of wine. What have you got that’s big and robust!” The bartender gave him exactly what he asked for…at $30 per glass. With tax and tip, two glasses of wine ran well over $70.

Kimmie chimed in, “Well, you see, Timmie bought me flowers for tonight, and I’d put them on the bar and in no time, they’d offered to put them in the freezer while we ate. Isn’t that nice? And then we got the wine bill.”
$30 Super Tuscans by the What? By the glass???

By the time we ended up getting seated, they placed us in the coziest corner in the place–the same one where my cousin and I had sat comfortably earlier in the month. But this time it was four people in a nook meant for about 2 1/2 or 3 people. Not comfortable. But directly next to the kitchen and ideal for people watching.
“Yeah,” said Timmie, you don’t screw the customer on the first drink. I cannot believe this happened to me! And I’m a bartender!”
The decor was a cross between kitsch with all these “signed” plates all around the office (some from CNN people, some from Hill people, some from sports folks), and cozy (a really nice bar area when you enter on the left and a really nice seating area by the kitchen. But those plates: we were seriously doubting these had been signed by the famous people whose names appeared on them.
At any rate, we had to prod our waitress to get beyond the specials, which she knew like the back of her hand. She had a terrific grasp of all the details of the restaurant and Timmie pronounced her a stellar waitress. I had to ask her, however, what the heck is an assagio plate? She wasn’t forthcoming with something for which the place is renowned. So like I say, after she explained what guest blogger New York Jetsetter Jon told us about yesterday regarding their assagio plates, we settled into like thirty minutes of debating what the hell we were going to get and what we could actually afford after the gouging at the bar.


We settled on LA VALENTINA D’ABRUZZO red for $48 a bottle. For a bottle that normally runs $12-$18 in boutiquey stores, this didn’t seem completely off the charts. Two bottles of that later…we had a lovely assagio d’insalata and capped the starters off with the sensational burrata with grapefruit, fleur de sel, honey, and pine nuts. The firm exterior and soft interior made for a very special treat; combined with the sour/salty/sweet/nutty flair from the added touches, Kimmie exclaimed, “Is anything not better with Pine Nuts sprinkled on top?”

The entrée steak choices we made could have been better presented and thought out. As I say a couple of weeks prior, I’d eaten here and had a simple pounded chicken breast grilled and the flavors were amazing. I am not a chicken fan, and combined with the arugula and cherry tomato salad, it was a truly strikingly memorable meal for $16. But these steaks were in the $30 range, and they were absolutely fine. There was nothing memorable, except for the cloyingly sweet balsamic glaze on Kimmie and Timmie’s and the overly creamy green peppercorn sauce for Lady O’s New York Strip.


Sweet Balsamic Steak

With a couple of nice, but pricey sides of spinach and potatoes, we rounded out an otherwise expensive meal. We felt that we really couldn’t afford to each purchase an entrée. And after spending $90 each and having only two entrées, well, you get the picture. There were no lunchworthy leftovers from Acqua al 2.
By the time a dessert plate came to us to split four ways, I think we’d more or less forgotten why we’d come. It was a splendid time with good friends, and a swell experience to boot. But the food was on the perfectly adequate side. With a couple of bottles of expensively cheap wine and the blot on the record from the top, I can safely recommend with obvious caveats:
  • Pre-game before you arrive, and sip tap water with lemon slices. (I find the lemon slices do a great job masking D.C., water treatment facility weaknesses.)

Insert smiling emoticon here.


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Monday, February 8, 2016

Tyler Florence's Wings


With the Superbowl safely behind us...it's time for...

Ah hell, screw it...it's time for more SUPERBOWL FOOD!

Today I bring you Koko’s Perfectly Terrific Wings, courtesy of the culinary flair of Tyler Florence.  Tyler was introduced to me by our mutual friend JPB.  JPB has something of the thing for Florence’s Tyler’s Ultimate. I’ll bring you several more dishes from this book, because I too have been hooked by the Florencian pizzazz.
Bag o' Marinading Chicken
At any rate, this is Koko’s work, so let’s take a short journey back to Baltimore where the home team is the Ravens, and just a few years ago, they were competitive in the run up to the Superbowl. 

While the Ravens may have little to do with the Superbowl this year, the excitement of this year’s Superbowl doesn’t quit. How could it after Sunday's game? 

I hope you are all asking yourselves, "Now why would he say that?" Because for me, this is a great excuse for the annual American party of parties to make something excellent and portal for lunch the next day! Imagine, appetizers for your Monday lunch at work!
After all that cooking for Koko’s Playoff Parties, let me assure you, it pays to plan ahead for this weekend’s big game.
Here’s Koko’s essential cooking tips:
Get those wings purchased and the wing tips torn off the night before.  But don’t over-marinate these babies.
  • Definitely do not marinade them overnight. The recipe recommends at least four hours. For Koko’s palette, he says, “Just marinade them for at most four hours.  The soy gets intense.

  • When you bake them, the soy sauce makes them pretty salty and the sugar will make them  sticky.

  • “Also, I would add some honey to the marinade at the start. Then add more honey as a glaze on top of each wing as they bake, towards the end of the cooking.”

  • These take a full 30-45 minutes to bake, so give yourself plenty of time.

Sticky Honey-Soy Chicken Wings
Ingredients
2 lbs. chicken wings
1 c low sodium soy sauce
1 T grated fresh ginger
2 T chopped fresh cilantro leaves
cloves of garlic, minced
1/2 lemon, juiced
2 T  olive oil
2 T  butter
1/2 c honey
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sesame seeds, for garnish

Directions
Rinse  chicken wings and pat dry. Remove tip and discard; separate each wing at the joint into 2 pieces. Place wings in a shallow dish and pour over the soy sauce, ginger, cilantro, garlic, and lemon juice. Toss well to coat; marinate, refrigerated, for 2 hours.
Tyler's Marinade



Remove wings from marinade and pat dry; season with salt and pepper. In a large saute pan over medium-high heat, melt the butter in the olive oil. When the butter stops foaming, add the honey and chicken wings and fry until browned on each side, about 5 minutes. 

Continue cooking the wings, turning them over often to coat them as the glaze reduces. Cook until the wings are sticky and cooked through. Garnish with sesame seeds and serve.


Tyler’s sweet, tangy wings are just terrific. No more difficult to make than any wings you might cook for any affair, and doesn’t require deep frying! But the gods’ honest truth is that they certainly are as tasty as any “Bourbon” chicken you’ve ever sucked down at the mall.  Perfect for the SuperBowl.  Maybe its all those wing tip bones you snap before…!
Tyler's Wings Ready for the Oven
I hope you didn't miss last Sunday's wing recipe, but if you did, just click on this hyperlink.


Koko's Superbowl Table



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Friday, February 5, 2016

Emeril's Superbowl Wings


Wings Fit For the Superbowl Spread
Superbowl season is upon us, and wings are in the air. 
Chicken wings, that is. 

Years back, I drove the loooooooong distance to Catonsville from D.C. and (I know, I know tiniest violin in the world...) soak up the Superbowl with KoKo and his tribe. But memories and blogs being what they are, we can relive the excitement of these wings with a simple repost. No driving, no cooking for me involved.

Since I wouldn’t dream of telling you to forego the buffalo wings and only provide you TYLER’S FLORENCE’S STICKY HONEY-SOY CHICKEN WINGS, that recipe will appear this coming Monday. 

However, I have no great pics of those wings. However, I give you Koko’s adaptation of Mr. Lagasse's dynamite (kinda literally dynamite hot and explosive) wings. The following recipe for them is courtesy of “Mr. Bam!” himself. So we began to eat Mr. Lagasse’s buffalo chicken wings that Koko had so lovingly prepared, and Poi's son said it best when he blurted out:

“Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh!!!!!”

They're hot wings. Here's how you make 'em:


Yack! These Wings are HOT!!!


CHICKEN WINGS A LAGASSE

Prep: 50 minutes
Cook: 10 minutes
Serves 6–8
Ingredients

4 lbs. chicken wings, rinsed and patted dry with paper towels
½ c Srirachi chili sauce
¼ c Crystal Hot Sauce
8 T butter, melted
½ lemon, juiced
1 T hot pepper sauce

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Directions
In a deep fryer or large saucepan heat vegetable oil until a thermometer registers 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Fry chicken wings in batches until golden brown and wings float in the oil, about 6–8 minutes. Drain well on paper towels.

In a large bowl combine Srirachi sauce, Crystal Hot Sauce, melted butter, lemon juice, and hot pepper sauce. Whisk well to combine and pour over fried chicken wings. Allow to sit a few minutes before serving with blue cheese and celery crudité.

BLUE CHEESE AND CELERY CRUDITE
8 oz. blue cheese
4 oz. cream cheese
½ lemon, juiced
ribs celery, cut on the bias into dipping-sized batons

Directions
In the bowl of a food processor combine blue cheese, cream cheese, and lemon juice. Process until smooth and well-combined. Serve with celery batons and spicy chicken wings.

Lots of iced tea or beer to chill down the heat on your lips, tongue, and other mucus membranes that come in contact with these wings.

Comments

"These wings tasted just like ones you would get from your local Wings 'n' Things but somehow better because you made them yourself. The down side of making them at home is the sheer quantity of vegetable oil required to fry them about 3/4 to 1 gallon of oil. I would only use pure vegetable, corn or other neutral, high flash point oil, definitely not peanut or olive oil to fry these wings. You can save the oil to fry at most two more “batches” of wings but man it’s not saving any corn."
—Koko


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Monday, February 1, 2016

Pleasure Food and Wine: A New Look at How We Live

A Blog Slowly Coming Back to Life*
"Rise like lions after slumber In unvanquishable numberAnd for chrissakes, Eat a proper lunch, will ya?"
(*My thanks to Percy Bysshe Shelley for the above modified quote. and a warning, due to my work schedule, this blog will be an intermittent one...wish I could promise better frequency!)

I started  ALunchBoxBlog.com (now rechristened, "A Thing That Makes Me Go Yum") back in 2011 because I want to start a lunchtime revolution in this country’s workplaces.

What?! you say. A revolution? When people all over lost their jobs in 2008 and have fallen out of the workforce since!?

Shouldn't we just be grateful for the jobs we DO have now, and eat quietly at our desks?

Ah, hell no. These are first world problems, and I intend to be the flag bearer for the middle class whiners who are sick of hiding pleasure, food, music, and wine. Why compete with the pious and virtuous? I say let the Middle East enjoy all the piety and perfection Allah provides. I want a world without a piety that denies folks their human failings. What a boring place earth would be if we couldn't enjoy the fruits of our indulgences.

So yes, a revolution! But not like Bernie Sanders (...or well, maybe a bit like him, he seems open to politically incorrect indulgences). Yes, indeedy, but this isn’t just any workers’ rebellion. Trust me, even your co-workers will freak out on you if you try eating like this at the office.

But I assure you, it’s worth it. It’ll change the way you eat and enjoy food in the workplace forever.

Many of us spend more than eight hours a day in the office. And workers should be encouraged to eat away from the stress of email and pending work assignments during their breaks without being judged by their coworkers or bosses for doing so. “Oh, she should be eating at her desk while she works. We all do. Who does she think she is?”

Trust me, I know that’s what they’re all saying. Paranoid I may be, but prove to me I’m wrong.  It’s time we stand up for our food rights in the face of this tyranny!

Maybe it’s because none of us take a lunch break that so many people have colitis, IBS, etc., in this country. The mix of stress and a lack of a good food break on a daily basis probably contributes to the neurotic eating habits of our fellow Americans.

I understand, sure, sometimes you cannot leave your desk at lunch. This happens to me plenty, usually if I'm procrastinating. Some jobs there are regular periods where long breaks (30 minutes or more) are completely impossible to take without shirking and putting your co-workers through serious agita.

And some periods of intense work are worse than others. However, is it really completely impossible for us to eat slowly and actually savour our food at work?  Is it truly impractical to put our meals on an actual plate, eat with actual silverware, maybe a real napkin, and sit at a table that is not our desk? Yes, many workplaces suck, and it’s absolutely impossible to find a separate space to just fully engage with the joy of eating.

I spent an unholy 5 months working for Post Newsweek Corporation many years ago, and I had to wash my dishes in the men's room. It was revolting. And inexplicable. Like what? They didn't have the money to provide us a kitchenette?

But if you are one of the lucky, or one day hope to be, you can find a place or create a new space, even if it’s just an unused office down the hall. Make it into your dining room away from home—complete with flatware, plates, and actual bowls!

Even canned soup tastes better when you drink it slower in an actual bowl.

This blog is how I do it, as well as how I make what seems like complex meals—simple and sometimes not-so-simple food for those who can envision a new way of living in the workplace.


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I belong to an extended group of food lovers and inventive cooks who like to experiment, making fun and novel food to make lunch, dinner, even breakfast a better meal.

Caveat emptor: most of my meals need to be made the night before (or you can make them on the weekend before the work week starts. And the time these dishes sit in the ‘fridge or on the stove with the heat off only makes them taste better!

Since I work at a typical American office in the suburbs from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., for me it’s all about making lunch-worthy leftovers at or after dinner. 


What can I make tonight that will cook up perfectly at work the next day and taste outstanding?

Let’s find out together.



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Friday, January 29, 2016

Winery Exchange: Chronic Cellars Has Arrived

Chronic Red Takes a Seat at the Table

Chronic Cellars, “Dead Nuts”

2013 Paso Robles Blended Red, 15% alc.

  • 64% Zin
  • 21% Tempranillo
  • 15% Petite Sirah
  • with just a smidge of Tannat for structure

Dear me, it’s time for a wine review.  Been a while. As some of you know, I spent the better part of three days this winter in Santa Barbara and Santa Maria wine country. The experience left me hankering for Central Coast California wines. Happily, a good friend at the Winery Exchange in San Rafael was keen to have me review a pair of bottle from this new distributor/winery Chronic Cellars.

This blogpost we’ll devote to and examine a strange and #winning little bottle called "Dead Nuts" by Chronic Cellars.

So I got home from work and a box full of some not-so-common grape wines had been dropped by my rather lazy UPS driver who didn't ask for a signature! What was he thinking? But this is D.C., so we're "goin' rogue" that way.

At any rate, what a joyful thing to come home to after a long day of work:

We'll Cover the White on the Left
in a Later Blogpost
I am a little surprised, but this rather hot, Zin-based red blend is a spicy, peppery mix of easy drinking Cali Zinfandel fun that features the punch and tannins of Petit Syrah and Tannat. There is an odd addition of Tempranillo here which I cannot explain, but it didn't deliver a noticeable interruption. Now, how a glass at 15% alcohol can be so easy to drink, I simply do not know. I would think the alcohol would overwhelm a glass without food. But this does not do that.

I’m pleased to report—not least of all because drinking bad wine drives me crazy—that this bottle provides a nice evening diversion. For the price ($ 26), I think it’s a fair bit pricey, but tasty, and I'm a sucker for that.

And most importantly for a Stoop Party thrower like me: no one is going to turn down a glass of this baby.

“Dead Nuts” is the most tannic in structure within the Chronic portfolio. As my friend said, “While the packaging is wild, the wine is good.” I agree. A little hot for my liking, but that caveat aside, I concur.
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Snowzilla in the MidAtlantic
As I was saying, I had just come home from a rough day fighting a first day back at work after the east coast's big “Snowzilla” snow storm here in the Mid-Atlantic (see picture on the left here). And the prospect of grilling a pork loin on my Weber was daunting, so I opted for the propane grill. After 25 minutes in the 375 degree oven and then 12 minutes on the grill, the loin was just superb. Pink and flaky without the dryness you so often get with over cooking. 

The hickory nuts and twigs I use on the propane grill substitute nicely for charcoals or lava rocks and the smell the loin gets is heavenly. With a simple spaghettini and fresh green salad—fresh from where in January I do not know and cannot imagine—I dived into my second glass.

Finishing a Pork Loin on the Grille Makes For a Lovely Roast
The second glass was great with the food. I think there is something to be said for planning a meal and then opening your bottle based on what you are making. I used to be very judgmental about this. But a Pinot Noir or a Crianza would have been wasted on this meal; so I was a little worried about the Tempranillo in this bottle. But this red blend (and I think red blends are vastly underrated by consumers) has the chops to handle the brined loin and my hearty red sauce.

And I'm not Really a fan of Pork!
This red from Chronic Cellars was a surprise when it probably shouldn’t have been. The grape combo you see at the top of this blog post tells you everything you need to know:

  1. The spicy, white- maybe black- pepper bite;
  2. The nice, full mouth-feel; 
  3. The surprisingly lack of a deeper, purple color that I expected. (The visual through the glass appeared to not be all that full-bodied, and I chalk that up to the Tempranillo thinning out the color, so the glass doesn’t enjoy a typical Zin color. No matter, the wine was delicious. 

It’s a fun drink with a grilled meal. Even the vinegar and oil in the salad didn’t spoil it. So, in spite of the label which strikes me as wine for Dead Heads (hence the name, “Dead Nuts?”), the liquid in the bottle outsells the intended target. I’m not sure why a wine of this calibre doesn’t deserve a label akin to the fancy Angelina and Brad labels we’re seeing at more of the celebrity wineries.

Maybe it’s a matter of taste! Maybe it's a matter of marketing. 

According to my notes on this wine, the goal for Jake and Josh Barnett (the brothers who make Chronic), has something to do with embracing lesser known varietals and trying to grow them in California. Also, they decided that if they were going to bother to make wines, they’d make “not your parents’ wine.” And so this portfolio is where it is today.

I’m open. I’d give them a try. They seem ripe to be distributed by BevMo or even a Trader Joes, so look for them in the higher end line of your local. I believe this may be the Peachy Canyon-equivalent of wine that used to define Paso Robles. It’s a hybrid, sort of a "newer varietals" meet the Zin, the Calif original.

I look forward to reviewing their Grenache Blanc/Picpoul white blend that they call "Stone Fox." Early word from this Tablas Creek/Denner/Kenneth Volk fan, it's damn nice.

Bon Appetit and Prost, all in one!
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