[pictures to come]
There’s really no reason to avoid Charlottesville Wineries, except for
the lousy drive that it takes to get there. Were there a train from DC’s Union
Station to Charlottesville’s train station which isn’t really that far from
downtown Charlottesville., this would be so much better. However, it’s 3 hours
of a train, with transfer, and then there’s no rent-a-car place at the station,
and so it’s all a bit of a palaver. I would say there isn’t really an option
except to drive down from D.C. It’s not ideal, but the drive is attractive for
the most part and the wine options are plentiful and unique.
Best to leave weekdays and before 3 p.m. ET from inside the district.
The trip through Gainesville, Va., to connect with Rte. 29 can really suck
after that time on weekdays. Returning from Charlottesville on a Monday is the
ideal option, but if you really must go back to work on Monday, leave Sunday
morning, skipping everything, but dropping into either Honah Lee or White Hall
for a final taste before hitting the road.
Lodging
The main “Mall” area is good too, but I don’t really see very decently
priced hotel options.
If you’re going to stay outside of downtown but still in
Charlottesville, the best looking brand new hotel is the
Hyatt
Place. I haven’t stayed there, but…it’s connected to a
serious of restaurants and shopping
that all look pretty good. I’d
not
say it’s unique, however, it’s a blend of chain restaurants you’ve seen all
over America, but at least you can walk from your hotel to dinner and
back. It’s Charlottesville’s answer to a
“Town Center” outside of downtown.
For housing outside of Charlottesville, I have a friend who
highly recommends the
Hampton
Inn in Fishersville/Waynesboro. While not in Charlottesville, it’s near to
the wineries and is a really nice joint at the right price. Good use of your
Hilton points, if you have any.
Dining
I’m a fan now of a random biscuit/Southern cuisine joint called
Ace Biscuit and BBQ. I really
enjoyed breakfast there.
There is a place north of town called the Shops at Stonefield that has
a cheesey Italian joint, Travinia, that I’ve eaten at. It’s not great food, but
it’ll do after a day of winerying. Most of the restaurants here have very
civilized outside seating areas in the Shops at Stonefield shopping center. And
if you need to catch a movie in a really good theater late at night, you’ve
come to the right place. Included here is a restaurant that seems really cool
but I haven’t been called Rock Salt and a coffee place called Grit. Both seem
like decent options.
For drinks/appetizers/dinner in the Mall area downtown—right near that
Omni downtown—is a
Mexican Anejo
joint called The Bebedero with a
great
wine list (including a Spanish Graciano! Who gets that by the glass anywhere in
America?) and like 100 different tequilas (which looked exceptional).
The Bebedero is a really nice late night drinks option if you sit
outside in the middle of the Mall or in the indoor, noisey seating area by the
bar. We were there at about 10:30 p.m. and the wine was terrific. It sits above
the
Whisky Jar (I wouldn’t go there
for anything, but the Mexican joint is just above it and has LOVELY options).
I have friends who’ve eaten at
the
Downtown Grill and said nice things. Pricey, but…at least it’s an option in
a food-unfriendly downtown.
While out on the road, check out:
Salt if you do the Jefferson Trail
wineries
1330 Thomas Jefferson Parkway
Charlottesville, Va. 22902
And
9519 Critzers Shop Road
Afton, Va. 22920
(540) 456-8020
Otherwise, bring your own food!
Sick of Virginia Wine?
Bold Rock
1020 Rockfish Valley Hwy
Nellysford, Va. 22958
My list of stops along the way to the wineries also includes a nice
little commercial cidery which has a hopped cider that is well-worth the visit
when they pour on draft.
Bold Rock Cidery
has a bunch of less appealing ciders (I thought I’d have to kill the dude who
made the peach cider—blech, what a judgement error), but
this India Pale Ale cider is most excellent
(and it’s “gluten free”…bwah ha ha…because it’s made with
apples. Hello? All those gluten-filled apples must have NOT been
used in the making of this cider. Maybe the hops are gluten free too? Blurgh!)
With a fine nose, a pleasant bitterness, and a fruit-forward flavor
that surprises because it’s not a mouth full of apples, it’s my go-to cider in
Charlottesville. So much cider these days is trying to emulate the European
bitterness and off-flavors that appeal to the cognoscenti. Bold Rock is a pleasant surprise with a sports bar
tasting room. But if the weather is civilized, there are outdoor patio
balconies overlooking their woodsy space and it’s just a remarkable space,
lovely and inviting.
Wineries
Wine in Charlottesville takes on a variety of options all of which hold
surprises and options. I’m going to focus on the best of the best, but the
experiences vary wildly, because some are holes in the wall, some are taxing
free-for-alls with great wine, and still others are rolling estates that are a
joy.
After having drunk the wine and sat out on the patio for a very expensive
set of sliders at
Pippin Hill, I
cannot recommend that winery now.
However, the view is just gorgeous and the seating is terrific. The wine
was insipid and the food was expensive.
I will list in order of best wineries to so-so wineries my best
experiences. Mapping them out would take me more time and I’m not ready yet to
pull together an incredible set of about 5 different winery days, but I would
encourage you to mix and match based on the experiences you want to have:
5273 Mt Juliet Farm
Crozet, Va. 22932
Great wine, luxurious setting,
polo matches on Saturdays
that you need to time your trip around. Call ahead or look online for polo
match days. You’ll feel like aristocracy for a fraction of the effort and
price! Bring searsucker jacket and hat to look especially dapper. Not stuffy.
Not snooty. Lovely reds. Renowned for their Crose, rose blush wine, but it’s
2016 iteration was blah. The 2014/2015 (?) Meritage red was a complete delight.
But they also had I think a Viognier that we also purchased and devoured.
5273 Mount Juliet Farm
Crozet, Va., 22932
(434) 823-1486
It’s not what it used to be, because they used to taste at the old
plantation on the hill, but the wine is still solid. The tasting room is a
bore. The environment is shot. But the wine is well worth the visit. Love
their Tannat.
4744 Sugar Hollow Road
Crozet, Va. 22932
(434) 823-7300
La
Tour D’Afton is possibly one of the finest Virginia reds, if not the best,
in the state. Stinson is the only one
selling it. I think it’s possible to set up a visit to that winery, but I
haven’t done so. Stinson wines themselves are forgettable. The reds from La
Tour D’Afton are not!
5282 Sugar Ridge Road
Crozet, Va. 22932
(434) 823-8615
I would say that any tasting that begins with
Thibaut-Janisson sparkling wine is
pretty outstanding from the get-go. It’s the only sparkler in the entire state
that I’ll drink. I walked up, and my pourer MaryAnn poured me half a glass.
Nice way to kick off a tasting that encompassed a bunch of strong, high-quality
Virginia wines. I left buying 3 wines and a case of cut-price Viognier they had
to move. Their Gewurtz was quite nice. But their reds are super. Worth the
visit to this place that’s really hidden down a terrific drive that takes you
away and north from Charlottesville. I stopped here on my way out of
Charlottesville and ended up there 3 hours.
330 Newtown Road
Greenwood, Va. 22943
(540) 456-8844
I always start here for a day out or end here after a long day, usually
because it’s so close to my hotel. Reliable Chard. Terrific Viognier this year
(2015/2016), and then good, memorable reds and some nice experiments like their
Malbec, which I don’t recommend but appreciate. My suggestion is to be prepared
to purchase. I always leave here with bottles, particularly their
Cab Franc and Meritage.
234 Vineyard Lane
Afton, Va., 22920
(540) 456-8667
Gewurtztraminer galore! Holy cow, Alsatian-style Gewurtz, in Virginia?!
You come here for exactly one grape. The rest of their wine is mostly forgettable
in my humble opinion; however, the G-wine is not to be missed. And sipping it
in the comfy chairs out on the veranda with a pooch by your side—this is why
they make estates with a view. Love the view. Bring your own food and sip it
with white wine-friendly appetizers.
500 DelFosse Winery Lane
Faber, Va. 22938
The wines are good, a lot of options here, but the whites were the
strongest. A Frenchman owns/owned it but is in the process of selling it. But
save your stamina, and trek UP the hill to the very tippy top, so you can look
down on the winery into the valley in which it sits. With a cold glass of their
Viognier blends or Sauv Blanc or Petit Manseng, you’ll be glad you wore
yourself out. The pics are worth the hike. Besides, you’ve been sittin in a car
all that time…you need the walk!
885 Freshwater Cove Lane
Lovingston, Va. 22949
(434) 263-8467
If you love wine and don’t mind sipping/tasting at a garage/warehouse,
this is the first logical step when you go tasting and want a beautiful
roadtrip. The trip from Charlottesville to Lovingston, Va., is really nice.
About 40 minutes from downtown you can begin your journey here, and work your
way up Route 151 (what I call “The 151 Freeway”). It’s a winery that makes a
few very unique, very worthwhile wines, including blended reds that they call “Rotunda
Red” and “Josie’s Knoll” (why they cannot just call it Blended Red Reserve and
Blended Red, I have no idea), and a Petit Manseng 2015 I’d travel for. They
also have a strong Cab Franc I appreciate for its pepper notes and its ability
to carry them through to the finish, unlike so much CF here in Virginia. 33
minutes from Afton Mountain Winery, you can start here and then wend your way
up 151 to Afton Mountain and lunch there. So start here around 11 a.m. and eat
lunch by 1 p.m. at Afton Mountain. You’ll be glad you did.
13443 Honah Lee Farm Dr
Gordonsville, Va. 22942
(540) 406-1313
Yes, THAT Honah Lee. The vineyard owners named it after Puff the Magic
Dragon because that’s how they saw it on their way when they had their kids in the
car in the 1970s when they bought it. At least I think it was the 1970s…the
owners love this land and now have their own label which I have not tasted yet.
I always begin this journey at Honah Lee Vineyards on my way to
Charlottesville. It’s a nice first stop on your way down from D.C., and it has
a homey, wine-shack feel, not a fancy-schmancy feel, something like you might
get at the
Foxen
Vineyards shack on Foxen Canyon Road in Santa Barbara County. Honah Lee is
a renown vineyard, home to the best Viognier in the state. They have been
growing here since I believe the good folks at Horton, Jim Law from Linden, and
my guy Michael Shaps source grapes from here as far back as the 1990s or was it
the ‘80s? You can also taste plenty of reds here and wines from other producers,
including a women-owned winery called Well Hung!
1575 Keswick Winery Dr.
Keswick, Va. 22947
(434) 244-3341
Far and away the best Viognier in the state, depending on the vintage
and the weather, obviously. I love their reds as well, particularly their
reserve Cab, which is a
fortune. This stop is a no-brainer. Do it, you’ll be glad you did.
Barboursville is at 17655 Winery Road, Barboursville, Va. 22923 – (540)
832-7848
Horton is at 6399 Spotswood Trail, Gordonsville, Va. 22942 – (540) 832-7440
You go to Barboursville for the history of Virginia’s first “real”
winery, the Sauv Blanc, and the solid reds. Their Octogon you never get to
taste during the tasting, so don’t get excited. It’ll be in the Governor’s
Case, not yours, unless you buy the bottle—which you can get cheaper online. The
wine tasting experience can leave you drunk.
Be sure to spit and swish, not swallow, or you’ll lose your whole day here. And
while it’s great and thorough as tastings go, you should really check out the
other wineries listed above first.
Horton is just a few short blocks away, and you go there for their
exceptional Viognier and Cab Franc. I generally do not approve of their other
wines, but those two are worth the weird tasting room. From here,
Charlottesville is about 20 minutes away, so plan accordingly so you don’t run
into friendly officers who’ll want to see your license and registration.
1353 Thomas Jefferson Parkway
Charlottesville, Va. 22902
(434) 977-3042
Nice work, JV for getting to name your winery this name. Stolen! But
the wine’s pretty solid and it’s right next door to
Salt, where you can get yourself a lovely
lunch and have a sip or two before going on with your day, as you head out to
Dave Matthew’s winery and more. I appreciate their Viogniers here. I think
these guys and Keswick make the best Viogniers, and outside of Loudoun County
Viogniers, these show well AFTER you buy them and get home and drink them a
month later.
Get on the road, drive to the bottom of your route and work your way
back to Charlottesville from here.
1781 Harris Creek Way
Charlottesville, Va. 22902
(434)296-3438
I’m not always a fan of his wines, but his work is exceptional in
Virginia. A real star of Virginia wine, like Jim Law, Jeff White, and Gabrielle
Rausse, Jake Busching (Shaps’ vineyard manager), and the Zonin Family. You come
here for the chance to meet him and chat when he walks out of the trailer to
see who is sitting next to his crush pad. I did with Morgan and we talked for
like a half hour about the tasting. He’s so cool.
Couldn’t have
said it better myself: “Shaps has been making wine in central Virginia
since 1995. He previously worked with
two highly regarded central Virginia wineries – Jefferson Vineyards, and King
Family Vineyards. He currently works as
a consultant to wineries in several states and has been involved in the startup
of more than ten wineries.
“He was the winner of the Virginia Governor’s Cup Wine Competition in
2004 and has been mentioned in numerous wine publications such as Saveur, Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast,
Wine Advocate, Washingtonian, and The Washington Post.”
3247 Carter's Mountain Road
Charlottesville, Va. 22902
(434) 981-1677
Just a beautiful little tucked away wine tasting joint. You can get
lovely bread and I think cheese with your tasting. And there’s a lady who cooks
“bites” you can purchase if you’re puckish. We only gorged on the bread, so you
don’t have to blow a fortune here. But I left with 3 bottles, so beware, you
may purchase plenty here.
31 Blenheim Farm
Charlottesville, Va. 22902
(434) 293.5366
Make your last stop Blenheim for two reasons:
(2) the view is great and at the end of the day, you’ll want the back
balcony view to soak in and destress from all that wine tasting.
It’s a delight, and a great musician owns the place. Happy to give him
the $5 tasting fee for the time on his ranch.
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