Thursday, October 22, 2015

Fish and Farm, San Francisco




Come on...who eats fried chicken at a fancy
schmancy restaurant intentionally?
“All meats and seafood are sustainably farmed and harvested. Serving naturally fed, antibiotic hormone and steroid free meats only. All produce–organic whenever possible. We strive to source local products”–you have been warned. F&F’s menu has some promising items in the starters section. The Farmers Market Vegetable Salad allegedly has fava beans and peas in …wait for it…October. That’s a bit unlikely isn’t it? But this is California, so perhaps their Spring lasts through…October? Thankfully my waiter cleared up that little mystery. It’s a fall vegetable salad now of frisee, red treviso, and watercress. With the candied pecans and champagne vinegar it soothes the bitter bite.

So, confusing, but hopeful, I asked about my white wine to start. He had the neatest description of the Viognier from Parallax, Amador County, Ca., You have to try it sometime: “I think of this wine as a lady in a red dress–peaches and cream with a great mouth-feel.” I feel a little dirty, I don’t know about you…Well, if that isn’t designed to sell a glass of wine, I don’t know what is. Were in the Union Square area here, so I suppose when you see a middle aged man eating alone, you probably think…ah! I have that one figured out. It was like yesterday when my taxi guy drove me by the strip clubs over by City Lights Books, just in case I needed to know. ‘bless.
At any rate, yes, so the starters all seem quite promising, but I’m not so sure they’ll be locally-sourced.
I am hoping that my hotel theory holds true. So I was talking with the concierge,and he encouraged me on the one last, bright, shining day in October in San Fran, to go to the beach. The trip to Baker Beach was quite arduous on the bus. He recommended a cab, so by the time I got back, I thought, let him know that I’ve scheduled a dinner at Daffodil in Union Square and get his first impressions. He immediately directed my attention to this place. I will say it’s ambiance is simple, and if I hadn’t been asked to sit in the bar, instead at a two-top in the main restaurant, I’d probably give my first impressions as a better one. However, when they try to shove singles into bars away from the hubbub of a place, I find that irritating, and not really fair. I mean, is it my fault that my company sent me to a conference that ended on a Friday night?
Well, the waiter is right, this is a terrific mouthful of Viognier with like thirty per cent Roussanne–favorite grapes of mine, most certainly. But they also had a Riesling from Storrs in Monterey that looked terrific, which they are out of, and a Semillon from Phillip Staley Dry Creek Valley. Sitting there all on it’s own. You have to appreciate any restaurant that has such variety in it’s whites this close to Napa–an area beloved of only two grapes Cab and Chard!
At any rate, it’s not a wall of Chardonnays as you might expect. Northern California wine makers have really heard: the call to step away from the buttery Chardonnays. They have seen the writing on the wall, and they’re diversifying, so the average wine drinker can develop a complex appreciation, not just a taste for oaky buttery wine. Ok, I’ll say it, California NOT New Zealand is vinifying the best Sauvignon Blancs in the world right now…France aside, the work being done with the grape in California is memorable time and again.
And the prices are all about ten dollars a bottle or glass, depending on whether you’re in the corner store or in a restaurant. These are not cheap bottles, so I think this waiter has a good mind for wine.

He’s approved my choice of red with my entree—Klinker Brick Zin from Lodi. For all you east coasters, you’ll know the Klinker from the many tastings at wine stores throughout the mid-Atlantic and New England area. It’s a huge seller, but I’m sure there will be readers who will be disappointed with me. I think that the other choices were just such a gamble. There a two that also caught my eye. The Syrah from Unti, “Benchland”, Dry Creek allegedly a 2006…shows promise and then the funky, fun-sounding Porque, No? from Tres Sabores, Napa, is a blended red of Zin, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Cab that snapped me to attention.
According to my waiter, the wine sounded a bit lackluster, maybe even flabby. He says the Unti is superb, but drinkers feel it can overpower. They will be switching this out as well as the Tres Sabores, because they’re going to bring an international set of choices. During the summer and early fall months the tourist drive them to select local wines; however, interestingly, San Francisco locals seek out international options!!
A Little Niman Ranch, Anyone?
What a hoot. Didn’t Sinead O’Connor say it best when she said, “I do not want what I have not got?” Bless her heart. I highly recommend that you all take a moment to ad her into your Pandora playlists–there were all sorts of songs she recorded over the past ten or fifteen years that are remarkable, if for no other reason than her quasi-crazy stylings and rock hard opinions make her unique. It makes for a lady with exquisite taste, I tell ya. Like Kate Bush…no relation to George. Put her into your Pandora–she’ll make you happy.
So where was I? Yes, the waiter. He’s directed me away from the rather typical, Niman ranch cheeseburger, and instead told me he’s a Southerner, and he recommends without hesitation that the Petaluma chicken. I’m hoping he’s got the taste buds to go with that suggestion. I hadn’t intended to come to this place and have fried chicken!! 
Oh, truth be told, I came here for the burger. Yelp raves about the burger. But Yelp tends to rave about things that are a bit common place, a bit done. The only problem with the chicken is it’s 21$, so for tonight, no starter.
Chicken thighs: I’m not really one hundred percent sure why chickens have breasts. I suppose it answers that age old question and probably has something to do with getting to the other side of the road. Thighs on the other hand were clearly made for eating.
My goodness…cornbread Madeleines. It’s about time. Be sure to ask for the honey. They don’t give you honey…neither does Popeye's when you order from there, but if you’re going to down a biscuit or a cornbread Madeleine, you do need the honey. Just don't slug a gulp of Lodi Zinfadel with the next bite.
There is a hot sauce that is a lovely lemony heat that they serve in a shot glass with the chicken. Attractive and yet simple and that shot glass takes the idea of those tiny Tabasco bottles and turns them into dining accompaniments.
Oh and the greens! This meal is served with sautéed pea greens. Not mustards. Nice touch for those of us who are mustard wimps.
Chicken Legs: no one likes to see them on a man–remember thinking to yourself, “Sheeeeesh, dad looks ridiculous in shorts.” No one likes to see them on a plate. Unless you are at TGIFridays; it’s just not food. But here at Fish and Farm, the chef seems to know exactly what he’s doing. He is a new chef who replaced Chad Allen here, so that might tell us something, though I’m not sure what. Legs appear to figure largely in Middle Eastern cuisine as well, so there may be something there. Anyone? Can you provide a cultural context for readers? Click on the comment link below and let me know. My gut feels me that legs are popular because all those tendons make rich people itch.
So I have a couple of helpful pieces of info if you come to this location. There is a lively little bar area that I completely overlooked because I felt slighted. At 8pm the bar dead, but now at ten pm, it’s a sweet place to socialize and meet interesting souls. My bad for judging before I actually sat there. And well, because I’m two minds on this, there is also what I wrote earlier in this blog post, but edited into this odd location:
Italian "Sauvignon," an After Dinner Drink
Oh yes, and from the beginning, sit in the main restaurant area–let your maitre d’ know. There are lovely little banquets that are perfect for snuggling…I’m alone here, people, reach out… To all my Facebook buddies, wish you were here. I’d buy you a dessert wine.
Gina, a nice Limoncello seems in order.



P.S. My kind waiter just brought me a glass of something I have never had. It rips the palette with acidity. It is called Sauvignon. Light, not weighty like an after dinner drink. I took it. I took it as a moment to spit, not swallow. It tore the red wine residue right off my teeth and completely cleansed the palette.
My waiter has spent a bit of time in France working his way up to chef. Then he came to San Francisco, and well, he’s on sabbatical from that. He serving in a nice little joint. Noisy on a Friday, but lively, fun, and close enough to Union Square that you aren’t really in the Tenderloin yet. But, ladies and gentlemen, this joint is abutting the Tenderloin. So beware. Come prepared for a taste treat and a bit of fun in a swanky cool environment.
Nice times on the edge of darkness near the Tenderloin.


___________________________________________

Be sure to follow A Lunch Box Blog  


Twitter   *   Facebook  *  Tumblr  *  Google+

No comments:

Post a Comment

Leave your comments here: