Florence Pulls it Off!
Feb 13
Acqua al Due Starters
As always, it’s super exciting to be bringing you another guest blogger. This post comes from the palette of New York Jetsetter Jon (NYJJ) who recently returned from a cozy winter sojourn to Italy. He had just the most compelling read for us all, so I wanted to share with you just as soon as I could get this put together.
On a side note, there is an ACQUA AL DUE IN WASHINGTON, D.C., so I hope to do a follow up post to confirm or deny that this Florentine treasure has brought the goods to the new world successfully. Stay tuned!
From New York Jetsetter Jon:
“I encountered several very good restaurants serving ‘authentic’ Tuscan cuisine on a recent visit to Florence. Frankly, I am not qualified to judge what is authentic Tuscan cuisine, or why there should be such emphasis on authenticity. I have eaten ‘authentic’ in Hanoi, but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it. Tastes and cultures differ.
In Tuscany, authentic seems to involve meat:
Meat in the Piazza
• Boar makes a frequent appearance;
• Prosciutto, of course.
• A Florentine specialty is tripe.
‘When in Rome’ etc., so at Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco (The White Boar) in the Oltrarano section under a painting of Richard III (whose heraldic emblem, I was reminded, was a white boar) I braved a dish of tripe in tomato sauce over pasta. It was OK, if faintly redolent of armpits. Washed down with very pleasant local red, it was inexpensive and ‘authentic.’
My Italian is rudimentary at best, and though the staff spoke decent English at the rustic Buca del Orafo, at the foot of Ponte Vecchio, the following night, I took a chance and ordered Mista Tuscano, confident it would be local, whatever it was.
Mista means “mixed” I knew, so there was sure to be something I liked. There arrived a large plate piled high with prosciutto, ham, salami, liver-sausage. I am not much of a meat-eater, but it was all very good. My dining partner was rewarded for his stick-in-a-pin selection with a huge steak. A local child at the next table had a pork chop half the size of himself. Eat up! Who needs to have a bowel movement every day?
The Bible teaches that surprising and miraculous things happen on third days. And so it came to pass, on our third day in Firenze, we discovered Acqua al Due (literally Water to Two … don’t ask me why…) on via della Vigna Vecchia 40r, roughly in between Palazzo Vecchio and Basilica Santa Croce.
I had a recommendation from a friend and frequent visitor to Florence and warned to arrive early as they fill up. The guy at the hotel desk gave directions, and we arrived at 18:45 (which is quarter to seven in old money). It was Sunday, and the maitre d’/proprietor informed us they weren’t open ‘til 7 p.m. I wondered why then the door was unlocked but quickly noticed one of the kitchen staff grabbing a last cigarette in the January cold.
We walked a meandering circuit in the warren of narrow medieval streets and returned 15 minutes later. Asked if they were open now, the maitre d’ peered at her watch and begrudgingly nodded.
Via della Vigna Vecchia, 40
50122 Firenze, Italy
055 284170
Inside the place is fun and quirky:
- Classic rock thrums at just the right level,
- Salads and desserts peek coyly from behind the counter,
- The interior walls are covered with ceramic plates signed and illustrated by famous diners.
We took our seat across from John Cusack’s plate and a very sweet young waiter explained, in embarrassingly accomplished English, how things worked. Acqua al Due, opened in 1978 and is known for its signature Assaggio ‘tasting’ dishes. Assagio di Insalata, for example, is a selection of three different salads. Assagio di Primi—five of the chef’s choice of vegetarian pasta dishes. In Italy the menu generally includes antipasti (appetizers), insalate (salad), primi, (first entre) pasta (some things even I can read), secondi (second entre), etc, etc, fish, meat, cheese, dessert.
Italians like to eat. You need to go in knowing your limitations. Don’t try to match the locals. Authenticity needn’t be taken to extremes.
Assagio d'insalata
Talking of extremes the couple at the next table split the Assagio d’insalata, then moved on to the Assgio di Secondi—filet mignon with blueberry sauce, steak on a bed of arugula, steak with green peppercorns and brandy, Dijon, and cream sauce— stake through the heart! Macabre. There should be a law. Personally, I’d eaten enough meat the previous night to last a lifetime.
We began by sharing a very good Greek salad. The feta didn’t overpower, as is often the case; the olives, not too bitter. My companion plumped for a regular single entreé. I ordered the Assiagio di Primi. Portions are generous.
The Assiagio was enough for two:
- Bowtie pasta with zucchini, garlic, and rosemary.
- Corkscrew pasta with spinach and Parmesan sauce.
- Cannelloni filled with marscapone and porcini mushrooms.
- Rigatoni with tomato eggplant sauce, mozzarella, and Parmesan
Each was more amazing than the last, and served consecutively, rather than all at once, so each is hot and fresh.
Assagio di Primi
Hard to tell which I liked the best. Each plate was a sensual experience, like that scene in “Tom Jones.” The funghi—rich and earthy. The spinach—intensely green and creamy. The tomato—piquant and bubbling.
Our server was attentive but soon very busy as the place filled up, and at one point the maitre’ d herself came by. This time she smiled and whispered seductively “Number five!” as she slipped the last plate under my nose.
Accompanied by a very pleasant and inexpensive Pomolo white wine we finished off with the Assagio di Dulce—four tantalizing desserts:
Dessert Plate from Firenze
- Tiramisu,
- Torta di Cioccolatta (Flourless chocolate cake—rich beyond belief),
- Ricotta cheesecake with walnut crust, and
- Crème brulee.
Rich, intense, and satisfyingly, not-too-sweet. On the other hand, we accepted a Limoncello (lemon liqueur) on the house. It’s an acquired taste, and one I have no intention of acquiring. If you like sickly sweet cough syrup and lemon sherbet candy go for it. It’s authentic.
At just a touch over $71 for 2 with appetizer, wine, and dessert, it was an affordable and truly exceptional dining experience.”
Acqua di Dulce
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